RE: Wheel hub centering holes
This whole issue of lug centric vs hub centric can be made a lot more complicated than it really is. The determination on which type of mounting system you have is determined by the wheel and how it was designed, not the vehicle. More specifically, which type of lug nut fastener the wheel is designed to use, will determine how it is centered on the axle. If your wheel has a conical contact surface where the matching conical lug nut tightens, it has to be considered lug centric. It is simple physics. When you tighten a conical lug nut, the two conical surfaces mating together, determine the center line between the hole and the lug nut stud. When all the lug nuts of this type are tightened properly, they determine the exact position of the wheel on the hub. The center hub of the wheel is not necessary to keep the wheel centered. Consider the older VW wheels, there was no center hub on them at all, but the lug bolts worked just fine to center and keep the wheel securely to the axle. That is why all steel wheels use the conical type lug nuts, they are strong enough to be mounted in this manner. If anyone remembers the first generation of alloy wheels, they came with hardened conical inserts in the lug nut holes, and used the same type of conical lug nuts. They also were lug centric in design. As alloy wheels evolved, the extra thickness needed for strength in the lug nut area created problems with the conical lug nut design. The lug nut had to be further from the base of the stud because of the thickness of the wheel material, and this causes additional lateral loads on the wheel studs, and they are more prone to sheering off. So to alleviate this problem, and to save on the cost of installing the hardened conical seats, the designers changed to the tightly fitting center hub for centering and wheel support, with the shank type lug nut with the flat washer. With this type of fastener, the lug nut torque produces enough contact friction between the back of the wheel and the axle surface to keep the wheel in place, and the center hub determines the wheels center in relation to the axle. This is why most aftermarket alloy wheels will come with center hub shims to make them fit specific vehicle axle hubs.
Case in point. My '03 Toyota 4Runner comes standard, with steel wheels, which use the conical type lug nuts. The center hubs are not an exact fit the to the axle hub. It is the conical lug nuts that determine the wheel centering when the wheel is mounted. I also have the factory optional alloy wheels, which use the shank type of lug nut with flat washer. The center hub of the alloys are machined to fit tightly to the axle hub, and it determines the wheels center, not the lug nuts.
In some specific circumstances, a vehicle manufacture may design an axle and wheel mounting system that requires a specific type of wheel, and that should be followed. But, in all other cases, it is the design of the wheel that determines how it is centered.
RE: Travel Trailer Inspection
As someone else mentioned earlier, NY does have a yearly inspection requirement for all trailers, regardless of weight. It is a pain, but I know any of my trailers will pass, before I hit the shop. But, as someone else also said, if you were to get into an accident involving your trailer, and it wasn't inspected, you might be liable for an additional fine, and your insurance company might look to that as a way out of covering the damage.
RE: Manual double steps
I had somewhat of a similar problem with the manual step on my Coachmen. The TT came with a single slide out step, and with the upgrade to 225/75-15 tires, the first step was a little too much for the DW. I didn't like the idea of a portable step, too much extra to pack away, so I picked up a set of Hickory Springs double manual steps. Of course, they were not exactly the same width as the oem unit, and when I tried to unbolt the oem unit, the bolts just spun in the frame, so I had to cut them off. And, the oem steps were welded to two angle supports that were tack welded to the frame, so I had to cut them off too, because the new steps were wider than the brackets were spaced. I mounted the new Hickory frame brackets to the frame, and drilled up through the frame, and into the door threshold, so I could use two 4" carriage bolts with large flat washers to support the front of the mounting brackets. I sealed everything, and is was pretty solid, but with the extra step, and the extra leverage it put on the mounts, I wanted additional support for my 270 lb load on them. I picked up a set of the Stabil-Step Jacks from CampingWorld, and they worked well on the first step, but I wanted something easier to set up and use. I bolted a piece of PT 2x6 to the underside of the bottom step, and made some slide in retainer brackets on the bottom of it for the square plate of the step jack to slide into before folding the lower step down. Now I slide the two jacks into the retaining brackets, and then rotate the step down and adjust the two jacks to support the step. The lower step is stable, and my weight doesn't flex the mounting system. Even the DW feels better using them.
RE: Stairs on a 2001 minnie winnie
I has somewhat of a similar problem with the manual step on my Coachmen. The TT came with a single slide out step, and with the upgrade to 225/75-15 tires, the first step was a little too much for the DW. I didn't like the idea of a portable step, too much extra to pack away, so I picked up a set of Hickory Springs double manual steps. Of course, they were not exactly the same width as the oem unit, and when I tried to unbolt the oem unit, the bolts just spun in the frame, so I had to cut them off. And, the oem steps were welded to two angle supports that were tack welded to the frame, so I had to cut them off too, because the new steps were wider than the brackets were spaced. I mounted the new Hickory frame brackets to the frame, and drilled up through the frame, and into the door threshold, so I could use two 4" carriage bolts with large flat washers to support the front of the mounting brackets. I sealed everything, and is was pretty solid, but with the extra step, and the extra leverage it put on the mounts, I wanted additional support for my 270 lb load on them. I picked up a set of the Stabil-Step Jacks from CampingWorld, and they worked well on the first step, but I wanted something easier to set up and use. I bolted a piece of PT 2x6 to the underside of the bottom step, and made some slide in retainer brackets on the bottom of it for the square plate of the step jack to slide into before folding the lower step down. Now I slide the two jacks into the retaining brackets, and then rotate the step down and adjust the two jacks to support the step. The lower step is stable, and my weight doesn't flex the mounting system. Even the DW feels better using them.
RE: Radio noise
So it sounds like it is indeed the converter... I forgot to ask.. Do you have the problem if you unplug from shore power and run just off the battery?
(or can you)
Damon blessed me with a Progressive Dynamics 9180 with wizard
I can't tell if the battery is there or not,, That sucker outputs pure DC with a wave form that kind of looks like this __________________________
None of This ___^____^______^_________^_______^_ at all
If I disconnected the shore power plug, the pop noise in the radio went away, so I was pretty sure it was the Magnetek converter. With the new WFCO unit, all is good, so far.
RE: Radio noise
OK, I checked all wiring connections, and tried to isolate the radio 12 vdc circuit as much as possible, but still had the problem. I finally located one of those lower unit upgrade kits with the WFCO converter on eBay for a good price. I installed it two days ago, and so far all is good. The 'pop' is gone from the radio speakers, and the new unit runs much quieter that the old Magnetek. The Battery charging circuit is working well. The only minor issue I see, is if I turn on all the 12 vdc lights, and I turn the radio volume way down, I do get a slight hum from the speakers, which seems to be in conjunction with the converter fan cycling on and off. Good thing is that it doesn't get louder as the radio volume is increased, so it isn't noticeable with the volume at normal levels. The install wasn't quite as easy as I expected. I had to remove the converter from the sheet metal enclosure and install the enclosure first, then put the converter in it, while routing the two sets of wires through the access holes in the enclosure and the under side of the upper part of the original Magnetek box. There wasn't enough clearance between the new enclosure and the original frame to sneak the wiring through without damaging it. Not a big deal, but it would make it difficult on someone who is not mechanically inclined. I.m glad I did it. I was surprised at how hot the old unit got, in comparison to the new one. Thanks for all the advise.
Looking forward to our 2nd trip with this TT, in two weeks to Old Forge, NY.
RE: Filling propane tanks
So how do you know when the first one goes empty?
For an explanation, go to:
Propane Changeover
It is so easy even I can do it! :D
That dont tell me when the tanks switched.
hpk
I agree, that system is a manual switch-over device. It describes the type of system I have. When the flame goes out, and won't re-light on the stove, I check the gauge. If it's red, I manually rotate the tank selection lever to switch to the other tank (hoping it is full ;-) ), and re-light the stove. When the stove goes out again, and won't re-light, I check the gauge again. If it's red, I again manually rotate the tank selection lever to switch to the other tank. If I haven't filled the first tank, I/m SOL. :S If I did, I re-light the stove, grab a beer, and wait for dinner to be ready.
:B
RE: Filling propane tanks
I take mine off and take them to a fill station.
I don't believe they can fill them still attached to your trailer.
I just take my tanks into my dealer ands they fill them. We have two-30 lb tanks and usually fill them twice a year.
They do it all the time. I stop by cheveron fill the truck up with diesel and have the propane topped off at the same time. Never once have removed the tanks from the trailer.
I have mine done at a local mini-mart gas station down the road from me, but I have to haul them there. They use a scale to weigh the tank while filling, to insure proper fill. If you don't remove the tanks from the tongue, how do you know they are completely filled, or how much propane you paid for?
RE: Crossed vs. Uncrossed safety chain pictures
USDOT requirements
Well, if I am reading these safety chain regs for PA right, they want two chains, each of which should be rated to support the entire weight of the towed vehicle. I looked at some chain available from the local Lowes, and was surprised at how big the chain had to be to rated for 6k. It looked larger than the chain that came with my Coachmen. And I remember that every component of a safety chain should be rated at least as high as the chain itself. The hooks that attach to my hitch are the modified 'S' type, with the spring retainers that I have seen on most trailers. I checked the 3/8 clevis hooks with spring retainer at lowes, rated for 5400, which is less that the potential 6300 max weight of my TT, and I don't think they would fit in the holes in the hitch you are supposed to connect the chains to. They are huge. Which makes me wonder, if any of the RV manufacturers come anywhere close to meeting the PA chain requirements?
That leads me to another question. Those holes in my hitch, a Valley 7k unit, where the chain is supposed to connect to. How does one know if they are rated for that kind of load?
RE: Crossed vs. Uncrossed safety chain pictures
This is a VERY interesting discussion. I just had to go out in the rain, and check on how the chains were attached to my (new to me) '91 Coachmen. They are two separate chains, each is attached to the crossmember, just behind the jack, about 6" apart. I was always taught to cross the chains, but the reasoning I was given had to do with turns. I was taught (and it made sense to me at the time) that if the chains weren't crossed, and they were adjusted to keep the tongue from hitting the ground in case of a hitch failure, the outside chain would tend to stretch tight during a turn and restrict the degree of turn you could make. If you crossed the chains, they would have to be somewhat longer to still keep the tongue off the ground, but they wouldn't restrict your turn in any way. But, this argument would only make sense, if the chains were attached to different points on the tongue frame instead of the same point. On most boat and utility trailers, with a straight beam tongue, you can't gain much separation between the chain anchor points on the frame, so utilizing a common anchor point is common, but if the chains are mounted far enough behind the coupler, crossing them would still seem to work as far as cradling the tongue if a separation happened.
I really like this discussion, and I am going to do more research on this.
Radio noise
I have a used (new to us) '91 Coachmen Catalina TT, and we are having a problem with a buzzing/popping noise from the built-in radio. The amount of noise varies, depending on how long the radio is on, what other 12 vdc items are turned on, and the state of the battery charge. The TT has a Magnetek Power Plus Series 6300, Model 6345 converter with battery charger. The converter and charger unit appear to be working, but the converter has a low hum when ever the shore power is connected. I have noted that the noise is worse when the radio is first turned on, and gradually lessens, but never completely goes away. After two days in a campsite last week, the noise had slowed down to a popping that occurred about two times a second with only the fridge running. When we turned on some lights, it got worse, not so bad with others. It also got much worse if I pressed the 'test' button to display tank and battery levels on the over-the-stove monitor unit. I have checked the polarity of the battery connection, and all the ground connections to the converter fuse board are tight. It makes no difference if the battery is online, or disconnected using the isolation switch between the positive side of the battery and the TT. But, when I disconnect the shore power connection, and just run on the battery, the noise disappears, so I am assuming the noise is coming from the converter/charger connection to the 12 VDC circuit.
Will replacing the lower half of the converter unit with the upgrade unit from Best Converter solve this issue, or am I looking at a separate wiring problems with the 12 vdc system that is being aggravated by the converter/charger when it is on?
RE: Length of TT compared to TV
My ratio, 314"/109.5" = 2.86.
Just returned from at 250 mile round trip with a mix of interstate, and local roads with no problems other than having to 'work' a bit on the long hills. The ride felt good with the equalizer setup, and I was happy with the way it went.
Awnibg Install Issue?
I have a used Coachmen Catalina (1991), which we just purchased (our first owned RV). And It has some leak problems, which I am working on repairing. One area which concerns me, is how the Awning was originally installed on the unit. When we first got the trailer, we noted a soft spot in the rear bedroom floor, which I am about to fix. As best as I can tell, the entry point for the water was from the bottom mounting point for the awning arm. Who ever installed it, placed it too high on the side of the unit, and didn't hit the main floor/wall beam. Instead they put the mounting screws into the decking above the beam, and they didn't seal the holes, so apparently water was able to run down the support arm, and invade through the holes and into the floor decking. I have already relocated both bottom mounts lower to anchor them into the main beam, and sealed the holes. My question is about how the awning is mounted to the trailer on top. When the awning is rolled up, it sits high enough to create a valley between the roll and the trailer side, about 2 1/2 inches deep. Is this normal? It would seem this valley would hold roof runoff and allow it to build up, until it finally runs out either end. Should I be worried about this area? It looks like I might be able to reduce the amount of the valley by lowering the upper arm anchoring points and lower the roll to eliminate this created valley. The awning is 20' long, and has a center support which would also have to be lowered.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
RE: Being a spotter, 101
This topic is SOOOO close to home..........
I'm fairly new to the TT experience, but have towed and backed up all other kinds of trailers and trucks and I have learned one very hard lesson with my significant other when it comes to this. I don't get her involved unless I absolutely have to. I use a method that is similar to what some others have mentioned, it is relatively easy for me to hook up with this method. I have the side-to-side level mounted exactly in the middle of the front panel on the TT, and I use the rear view mirror and the center headrest on the rear seat to line up all three when backing up to the trailer. I am usually within 1" of center each time, and only have to worry about how far to go back. After a couple of practice runs, I have figured out what the right distance looks like, and I can usually get the ball right under the hitch in two tries. As for backing in to a site, what works best for me, is to use the bright orange wheel chocks to mark the left edge where I want to place the trailer. The only part the wife assists with is I ask her to stand a few feet out from where I want the wheels to be, and let me know when they are even with her. I then check for side to side level, and move up enough to place the wheel blocks in place that I will need to make level. Then she again lets me know when I am centered on the blocks. Then she goes about setting the inside up, and I work on everything outside. This method has evolved after several 'discussions' about what she 'thought' I meant, and what I couldn't seem to ever understand about what she was trying to indicate by her version of sign language. This system works for me, and we don't start the visit already not talking to each other. ;-)
One thing I have learned, over the years, is that backing up with a trailer is an acquired skill that does take some practice to master, and some people just never seem to get it. I can't tell you how much 'entertainment' I have had over the years at a boat ramp, watching the antics. A ramp that is wide enough for three vehicles to launch at the same time, is somehow not quite big enough for some people with one boat. I'm not always perfect the first time, but I have had good luck teaching some friends by taking them to a vacant college parking lot on a Sunday, and practicing both backing straight and making turns while backing. Many people just aren't comfortable with using just the mirrors when backing, and IMHO, that is just about a necessity to do it well.
RE: Can I connect rv to house power?
It is not only what is running in the trailer but also what is on the same circuit the trailer is plugged into. I used to plug into my garage but I also have a freezer on the same circuit. I could not run the air so I installed a dedicated 30 amp outlet outside so now I have no issues running everything.
Did the same thing with my 'new to me' TT. Installed a 30 amp breaker in the main panel box, and ran 10 gauge wire to an outside covered receptacle mounted on the front of the garage. Now I can plug in when ever I need to.
RE: Have any of you upgraded your kitchen faucets?
I just replaced the kitchen faucet in my (new to us) '91 Coachmen catalina. The only problem was the original faucet had two holes in the counter on each end for the hot/cold supply lines and the lockdown mounts. I replaced it with a single handle unit with sprayer, so I had to drill two additional holes. One in the center for the hot/cold supply lines and sprayer hose connection, and one for the sprayer mount alongside the unit. Took about 1 hour to complete, and wife loves it.
